{"id":733,"date":"2013-11-19T07:12:54","date_gmt":"2013-11-19T15:12:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/?p=733"},"modified":"2013-11-19T15:21:54","modified_gmt":"2013-11-19T23:21:54","slug":"733","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/2013\/11\/19\/733\/","title":{"rendered":"Stu.Pz.IV \u201cBrummbar\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>Ah, the enjoyment of receiving a package from the Boys in Brown, especially when I know that it contains a Stu.Pz.IV \u201cBrummbar\u201d.\u00a0 During the course of one of our frequent email conversations, MMiR editorial assistant, modeler, and all around nice guy Jeff Kleinhenz mentioned that he was feeling short on time asked if I would be interested in doing the finish work on the Brummbar that he was working on.\u00a0 Let me get this straight; I get to jump ahead to the fun parts?\u00a0 No construction, just painting and weathering?\u00a0 Well, this is a nice change of pace.\u00a0 Oh yes, there was one thing, I would need to apply the Zimmerit.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Opening the box I was greeted by the mostly completed kit.\u00a0 The major portion had been constructed and left in sub-assemblies.\u00a0 Taking out the instructions and arranging the parts before me I made myself acquainted with the kit and Jeff\u2019s progress.\u00a0 As this is a 2 in 1 kit I could see where Jeff had made notes in the margins as he followed a particular reference, in this case the Aberdeen example. \u00a0In other areas Jeff had made comments regarding areas that required extra trimming or sections that had been skipped until after the Zimmerit.\u00a0 I was pleased by detail of the kit parts and I was particularly impressed by Jeff\u2019s building skills.\u00a0\u00a0 There wasn\u2019t much left for me to do but get on with the Zimmerit.<\/p>\n

This would be only my second project that I have applied the anti-magnetic paste, the other being a little1:48 StuG IV.\u00a0\u00a0As on the first project, once again I am using the Mori Mori putty.\u00a0 The putty is a 2-part process affair comprising of a\u00a0tube of a toothpaste consistency paste and a second small bottle containing a\u00a0yellow, liquid catalyst.\u00a0 Drying (working) time can be\u00a0determined by the amount of catalyst that you mix into the\u00a0paste.\u00a0 I squeezed a small dollop of the paste onto a piece of scrap plastic, then using the tip of a toothpick I add a small touch of the bright yellow catalyst – just a small\u00a0hint\u00a0of the catalyst\u00a0 results in a light, creamy yellow appearance.<\/p>\n

Rough Around the Edges \u2013 Applying Zimmerit<\/b><\/p>\n

Realizing that there are many techniques to creating the distinctive texture of Zimmerit, I chose to cast my texture using a set of Model Kasten Zimmerit tools.\u00a0 The tool set contains two handles and four different sized patterns; two stamps and two wheels.\u00a0 I also made handy a small sized screw driver in order to get to those hard to reach areas.\u00a0 Not being one to wait, I started straight away applying paste to one of the lesser exposed areas of the vehicle; the lower hull.\u00a0 Using a small scrap of plastic as a spatula I spread a thin layer of the paste onto the surface then let is set for approximately 1 minute.\u00a0 My preferred tool tended to be the small rollers as it makes very quick work of laying on the pattern.\u00a0 Simply roll vertical lines, one next to the other until a section is completed.\u00a0 The putty, if mixed to a light creamy yellow color, provides for a working time of about 3 minutes before becoming hardened.\u00a0\u00a0 Until it has set it is possible to work, and rework an area until satisfied; a feature that I took full advantage of.\u00a0 Section by section I worked around the vehicle, usually one panel at a time allowing it to dry before moving onto the next.\u00a0\u00a0 Every so often I had a little trouble with the putty sticking to the Zimmerit tools, but found that a light spray of WD40 onto the tools helped prevent this from occurring.<\/p>\n

Where did Jeff Leave Off?<\/b><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>With the Zimmerit completed I moved back to more familiar territory, plastic and liquid cement.\u00a0 Picking up where Jeff left off I added the numerous fittings, brackets and details to be found on the Strumpanzer.\u00a0 In the area of the instructions regarding the installation of the interior floor and firewall, Step 17, Jeff made note that this assembly (parts D11, D6, D7, D24-26) should be installed earlier in the build sequence. This step also concerns the installation of the gun which came to me already assembled, Jeff\u2019s excellent work clearly on display.\u00a0 The margin notes stated \u201ctoo tall\u201d with a broad circle drawn around the diagram of the gun.\u00a0\u00a0 Apparently dry fit had shown that the gun\/mount is too tall to fit into the superstructure.\u00a0 This was confirmed by my tests as well.\u00a0 For a solution I simply sanded down the bottom of the mounting plate, thus lowering the gun until a proper fit was realized.<\/p>\n

When it doubt, paint it like the box.<\/b><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
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The painting of the Brummbar presents two interesting\u00a0issues for me personally.\u00a0 First, I have extremely limited experience with Zimmerit coated surfaces.\u00a0 My concern is that that by the\u00a0very nature of the surface\u00a0texture, the finish could become irreversibly dark, very quickly,\u00a0 My second concern is my own personal issue; I find lighter base colored vehicles particularly difficult.\u00a0 A bit of a psychological block, I suppose, but I seem to always struggle with the definition and weathering over lighter colors.<\/p>\n

I decided to tackle both of these concerns by using some of the principals of the Color Modulation Style.\u00a0 My hope was that by forcing extra highlights and shadows within the base color, providing an\u00a0interesting, lively base that I hoped would require less need for darkening filters and washes.\u00a0 The base color is Tamiya Dark Yellow into which I add a good deal of Tamiya white, cut with Tamiya lacquer thinner.\u00a0 With this light color I applied an overall covering, paying particularly attention to be sure that I had complete coverage on the upper surfaces the shadow colors followed, consisting of Dark Yellow mixed with a few drops of Tamiya NATO Black.\u00a0 Between these two contrasting tones I blended the colors by spraying the area with a mid tone\u00a0Tamiya Dark Yellow with only a few drops\u00a0of White.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Over the base color I applied the camouflage pattern as shown from the box art and instruction examples.\u00a0 The light brown color is mixed from Tamiya Red Brown mixed with a few drops of Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan.\u00a0 Next, using Vallejo acrylics I began initial weathering by applying light buff and yellow filters adding interest and individuality to the features.\u00a0 Then, still using Vallejo acrylics and with a new, fine brush I spent a relaxing afternoon adding the numerous light chips, scratches and scuffs to the surface. Over the scratches I applied yet another round of thin acrylic filters.\u00a0 These final\u00a0 filters not only serves to subtly alter the base color, but also act as an agent that shift the appearance of certain scratches and chips deeper into the surface, while making other marks more pronounced.\u00a0 Before proceeding any further I sprayed an overall coat of Future polish then applied the decals.\u00a0 I was a bit concerned to be applying decals over the Zimmerit surfaces, but with the use of Microscale Micro Sol they settled down completely.<\/p>\n

Switching to artist\u2019s oils I applied dot filters to the large surface areas of the vehicle. The color palate was primarily light shades of white, creams and ochre\u2019s, though I also used red in certain places to add subtle warmth to the finish.\u00a0 After the filters had dried, oils work continued as I painted my way around the vehicle working MIG Productions Shadow Brown into all of the nooks and crannies to bring additional definition and weight to the finish.\u00a0 Working with oils is a slow process due to the drying time involved, but I believe well worth the wait as they bring a level of richness not available through other means.\u00a0 By this stage, the weathering process is such a back-n-forth affair, for me, that it is a little difficult for me to accurately describe the process.\u00a0 Suffice to say, it\u2019s not a linear path and this project seemed to wander around more than usual.<\/p>\n

Are We Done Yet?<\/b><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>It is about this stage that I begin to make refinements with an eye toward the final composition.\u00a0 Pin washes of Raw Umber, Shadow Brown, and German Ochre are used to bring definition and crispness to the features. As with acrylics, I find that artist\u2019s oils have certain limitations as well and there seems to be a certain point and I know that I am getting near the finish when I bring out my jars of pigments.<\/p>\n

As usual for me I dissolve the pigments in mineral spirits before application.\u00a0 The lower hull and running gear first receive large, broad washes of pigments to begin the process of mud and dirt accumulations.\u00a0 To the upper surfaces I use more restraint by using a smaller brush to carefully place the pigments directly to the wanted areas.\u00a0 Again, working with dissolved pigments tends to slow the process, but I find the added control worth the extra time.<\/p>\n

It was at this point where I was going to call this one finished.\u00a0 Matter of fact, I was in the process of taking the final \u201cbeauty\u201d shots for this article when, while reviewing the photos, I felt that something was missing.\u00a0 At first I couldn\u2019t quite place it, the Brummbar looked okay to my eyes, but the camera shots left something to be desired.\u00a0 Finally it struck me that it seemed to lack the lumbering sense of purpose that I was looking for.\u00a0 It needed more weight.\u00a0 The solution was to add mud in the form of plaster mixed with white glue, water, paint and pigments to the lower hull.\u00a0 Actually, quite a liberal application of mud, gun, and pigments was given to the hull, tracks and lower hull, but it seemed to give the vehicle the sense of weight and purpose that I was looking for.\u00a0 After adding the extra plaster and pigments I returned with pin washes and small brushes to \u201cre-tighten\u201d the finish.\u00a0 I completed the work using both Model Master Burnt Aluminum and silver Prismacolor pencils to add polished steel effects to the tracks.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

Zimmerit, the final frontier?<\/b><\/p>\n

Having the opportunity to finish this great project as begun by my friend Jeff Kleinhenz has really been a privilege.\u00a0\u00a0 Although I only spent limited time in the construction of this kit, it is apparent that Dragon has presented the modeler with an excellent offering.\u00a0 This \u201cStupa\u201d certainly makes a welcomed addition to my display case.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Given the fact that many German subjects carry the anti-magnetic paste makes it almost inevitable that sooner or later you will have a project on the bench requiring Zimmerit.\u00a0 In fact, Zimmerit has created a thriving business for the aftermarket folks.\u00a0 Not to take anything away from these offerings as there are many very fine examples of resin or etched Zimmerit available.\u00a0 However, the option of doing the application yourself is relatively simple and very rewarding.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ah, the enjoyment of receiving a package from the Boys in Brown, especially when I know that it contains a Stu.Pz.IV \u201cBrummbar\u201d.\u00a0 During the course of one of our frequent email conversations, MMiR editorial assistant, modeler, and all around nice guy Jeff Kleinhenz mentioned that he was feeling short on time asked if I would […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[43,7,6,42],"class_list":["post-733","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-rick-lawer-propaganda","tag-brummbar","tag-propaganda","tag-rick-lawler","tag-tristar"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/733","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=733"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/733\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":740,"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/733\/revisions\/740"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=733"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=733"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=733"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}