\n| ngg_shortcode_24_placeholder<\/td>\n | ngg_shortcode_25_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n Ok, let\u2019s move this tractor from the farm yard to the front lines.\u00a0 Looking at the original photos it appears that the basic tractor is a closed cab machine, with the extra armor simply welded or bolted onto the frame.\u00a0 Since my tractor was a sporty cabriolet I would need to build a framework for the applied armor. Using the photos as a pattern guide I used plastic strip to replicate the general shape of the structure.\u00a0 It also appears that the “armor” is really nothing more than scraps of sheet metal.\u00a0 I decided that the protection on my tractor would be a little more substantial and opted have my tractor adorned with cut steel plates made from plastic stock.\u00a0 The bits and pieces of etch, including the tread plate patterned visor are from my scraps box.\u00a0 As you can see from the accompanying photos i build the frame\/armor as an independent assembly, unattached from the tractor itself.\u00a0 Once the tractor is painted the framework is designed to simply slip onto the tractor.\u00a0 My pattern for the framework was mostly a matter of speculation and test fit, hoping that in the end it would somewhat resemble the reference image. \u00a0The 12.7cm DShK gun, along with the water cans in the rear of the tractor came from MIG Productions.\u00a0 Over the cab I decided to pay homage to the sheet metal armor in the original photo by adding a sheet metal sign as the roof.\u00a0 To add a little visual interest I made a quick stencil using the letters “P” and\u00a0“e”; for no particular reason.\u00a0 Later, my modeling adviser from Croatia congratulated my on my lucky choice of letters telling me that these letters were the first letter of the word “Pekara” which translates to Bakery. Fine by me\u2026a bakery sign it is.<\/span>\u00a0 <\/span>The<\/span>welds along the plates have been made from stretched sprue and 2 part epoxy, and then painted with Reaper Miniatures Pewter color simulating relatively fresh welds.\u00a0 These weld colors would need to be refreshed a number of times during weathering to maintain their luster.\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\nIn all honesty one of the major reasons I was attracted to this subject was for the painting and weathering.\u00a0 The well-worn tractor, the scuffs and chips, metal finishes, rust, dirt and grime\u2026.I knew that this could be an incredibly fun challenge.\u00a0 There was little doubt that the “hairspray technique” would play an important role with the finish of this project\u2026.particularly the tractor itself as the reference photo showed a vehicle that was highly worn, lots of paint peels and chips.\u00a0\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n| ngg_shortcode_26_placeholder<\/td>\n | ngg_shortcode_27_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_28_placeholder<\/td>\n | ngg_shortcode_29_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_30_placeholder<\/td>\n | ngg_shortcode_31_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_32_placeholder<\/td>\n | ngg_shortcode_33_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_34_placeholder<\/td>\n | ngg_shortcode_35_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_36_placeholder<\/td>\n | ngg_shortcode_37_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n The hair spray process began with the underlying grey “primer” color using Tamiya paints.\u00a0 I sealed this layer with a light layer of Future floor polish, followed by another layer of hairspray.\u00a0 As an aside, until this project I had used the least expensive, non-brand of hairspray on the shelf.\u00a0 \u00a0I figured that hairspray is hairspray and what’s the difference?\u00a0 This time I tried using the brand TRESsemme’ hairspray and was quite surprised by how much of a difference it made.\u00a0 \u00a0Maybe not all hairspray are created equal?\u00a0 It seemed as though the flakes came off more easily in more uniformed sizes; basically I felt as I had better control of the process.\u00a0 Once the hairspray layer had dried (about 1 hour) the tractor was painted using Tamiya Red with a few drops of Buff added for a faded effect.\u00a0\u00a0 Finally, using a small stiff brush and water I went about scrubbing off flakes of the red paint to reveal the grey primer underneath. <\/span><\/p>\nA healthy round of MIG Productions 502 Abteilung artist\u2019s oils brought out the details and laid the foundation for continued weathering later on.\u00a0\u00a0 Working with the artist\u2019s oils is probably my favorite part of the finishing process.\u00a0 The oils really bring a strong level of depth and richness to the finish.\u00a0 I begin the weathering of the tractor by applying MIG Productions Abteilung Shadow Brown directly into all of the nooks and crannies of the vehicle.\u00a0 Then with a soft brush I feathered the paint and removed any heavy, unnatural accumulations.\u00a0\u00a0 Although a somewhat subtle effect, I feel that this is an important step in creating a certain weight and depth to the final presentation.\u00a0 At this point the model is set aside for a time to allow the paints to dry completely.<\/span><\/p>\nMoving onto the armored framework I basically followed the same painting techniques as I had used on the tractor.\u00a0 The work on the armor began with a nice base color layer, in this case bluish steel color. \u00a0 Repeated layers of hairspray and paint (bright orange, red, yellows, and blue) were added and then scrubbed off which resulted in a rich, organic foundation of textures and colors.\u00a0 Experience has shown me that it’s better for the colors to be overly bright at this stage as they will tone down significantly during the subsequent finishing steps.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n| ngg_shortcode_38_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_39_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_40_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_41_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_42_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n | \n| ngg_shortcode_43_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n Once I had finished laying the foundation colors using the hairspray techniques I return to the more \u201ctraditional\u201d weathering methods.\u00a0 I first began by applying filters using Vallejo acrylic paints.\u00a0\u00a0 The consistency of these filters is not much more than colored water, but they are very effective in enhancing effects of the hairspray foundation.\u00a0 I tend to work very quickly during this stage; at times applying a second filter to an area before the first layer has had time to dry.\u00a0 These \u201cwet on wet\u201d applications can also produce some interesting effects.\u00a0 Once I am satisfied with this step I apply another light misting of Johnson\u2019s Future to seal the acrylics one last time before moving onto using artist\u2019s oils.\u00a0 Adding another layer of Future is totally a matter of personal preference.\u00a0 I do it because of the porous nature of the acrylic paints which tend to easily \u201cstain\u201d when applying the artist\u2019s oils.\u00a0 This final layer of Future helps to avoid \u201chot spots\u201d and also allows the oil colors and thinners to more easily move over the surfaces. \u00a0<\/span>The<\/span>welds along the plates have been made from stretched sprue and 2 part epoxy, and then painted with Reaper Miniatures Pewter color simulating relatively fresh welds.\u00a0 These weld colors would need to be refreshed a number of times during weathering to maintain their luster.\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\nOnce dried, I return to the project using more artists\u2019 oils, this time in the form of dot fading.\u00a0 In the case of the steel plates In the case of the steel plates I used a number of red and rust colored paints, but also did not shy away from applying spots of blues and yellows.\u00a0 The dots are applied to a surface that has been pre-moistened and are worked into the surface using a larger, soft brush; downward strokes on the vertical surfaces and more of a swirling motion on the horizontal surfaces. The idea is to create subtle, tonal variation to the base color which helps to add to the visual interest of the model.\u00a0 In contrast to using the acrylic paints, each oil paint application must be allowed to dry completely before revisiting an area otherwise you can easily end-up with a brown\/grey mess rather than clean, bright colors.\u00a0 A hairdryer is a handy tool during this stage.\u00a0\u00a0 To the lower chassis and around the wheels and engine earthen colors of artist\u2019s oils were used to provide a dirty, grimy base for additional weathering.<\/span><\/p>\nThere always reaches a certain time during the painting process when I realize that the paints and oils have reached their functional limits:\u00a0 the appearance that I am after just cannot be achieved by doing more of the same.\u00a0 It\u2019s at this point that I incorporate pigments into my weathering mix.\u00a0 I think of the pigments more as an extension of painting, rather that a separate material.\u00a0 With that thought in mind I nearly always dissolve my pigments in thinner and apply them wet by using a small brush.\u00a0\u00a0 On the upper armored surfaces I used the pigments rather sparingly.\u00a0 I applied \u201cwashes\u201d of rusty\/orange colors which I would \u201cset\u201d at various stages using MIG Productions Fixer.\u00a0 Fixing the pigments allows me to continue to apply additional layers of pigments and oils without fear of disrupting my previous work.\u00a0 The lower areas of the vehicle where also treated with pigments using earthen colors, however the application of the pigments was much heavier in order to create the accumulated dirt and grime build-up.<\/span><\/p>\nI should point out that my finishing process is by no means a linear path moving from acrylics to oils to pigments.\u00a0 Rather, it\u2019s not uncommon that I will move from acrylics to oils, maybe add an additional acrylic filter, apply some pigments and then maybe come back with another application of oils.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n\u00a0Lay of the Land<\/span><\/p>\nI had intended from the outset of this project to include a scenic base.\u00a0 The problem was, however, I couldn’t decide what the scene should be.\u00a0 Initially I had decided to build a more or less urban landscape, thinking that it would make for an interesting juxtaposition between the farm tractor and setting.<\/span>\u00a0 <\/span>I began by constructing small, round base and 2 story building using styrene.\u00a0 By this time, however, I wasn’t particularly happy with the way it was turning out. The layout just wasn’t working in my opinion. I began to play around with different ideas \u2013 changing the base size, adding sidewalks \u2013 or leaving the building off completely.\u00a0 While I was messing with it I decided that I would try changing the height of the building \u2013 and make it a more rural landscape. I took my styrene building to work with me and cut it in half \u2013 now <\/span>using only the top half of my original structure. To the base I added a small hillside, a ditch and a road.\u00a0 At this point what began as my home project became part of my job \u2013 I decided that I would make this base into a new kit release for Masterpiece Models. \u00a0The next day or so (around my real work projects) I spent making mold boxes and pouring rubber \u2013 and finally resin.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-content\/uploads\/hell.jpg\") <\/a>With the resin out of the molds it was time for paint.\u00a0 I began with a matte black primer over the entire base.\u00a0 I followed this by laying out the broad colors of the building and groundwork using my airbrush and combination of Vallejo and Tamiya paints.\u00a0 \u00a0Vallejo Model Color Stone Grey was used for the building while Tamiya Flat Earth and Buff laid the foundation for the ground and roadway.\u00a0\u00a0 A few days with the paint brushes were spent picking out, and refining the details of the building fa\u00e7ade and grounds.\u00a0\u00a0 The colors were unified using a series of light washes and filters using MIG Productions products.\u00a0 Pigments were used on the groundwork and for the smoke stain on the front of the building. I had noticed during my research that many of the buildings and ruins were “tagged” with graffiti and slogans.\u00a0 This, I thought, would be an ideal feature to add to my building.\u00a0 When you don’t speak the language this is a little easier said than done.\u00a0 I’m sure that you will notice the different manifestations that the graffiti took from the progress photos.\u00a0 Once again my Croatian friend was a big help to me in getting the proper words and tense.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\nThe groundwork was completed by placing a few clumps of Silfor grass along with a small snag of a tree made with a root from my garden.\u00a0 Debris in the street was made from torn bits of tracing paper wetted with white glue\/water and lightly colored with acrylic paints while the scraps of broken wood are \u2013 well, scraps of broken bass wood. \u00a0Both of the figures came from the Warriors range and painted using Vallejo acrylic paints. \u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nIn all honesty I began this project knowing very little about the tragic events which took place in Croatia and the region during the 1990\u2019s.\u00a0 And so, for me, the knowledge I gained while doing the research regardless of the model was quite fulfilling.\u00a0 Once again, MK35 Editions is to be congratulated for a very fine model of the farm tractor.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"1\"](\"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-content\/uploads\/114.jpg\") <\/li>![\"2\"](\"https:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-content\/plugins\/soliloquy\/assets\/css\/images\/holder.gif\") <\/li>- <\/li>
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<\/a>Montenegro, Slovenia, and Serbia). During Tito’s reign nationalist sentiments were repressed, especially among the Croats. A decentralization program went into effect in 1970 but it did little to pacify Croats. With Tito’s death in 1980, Croat demands for independence only increased but it was not until the fall of the Berlin Wall that things began to come apart.<\/span><\/p>\n