\nngg_shortcode_14_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_15_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\nConstructing, or should I say \u201cdestructing\u201d the Panzer IV was an incredibly fun part of this project.\u00a0 When planning out the scene I initially had thought that the bulldozer would be the star player and that the wreckage would play only a supporting role.\u00a0 Once begun, however, I soon realized that the Panzer IV wreckage would certainly share in the spotlight.\u00a0\u00a0 I composed the wreckage based on a few key, recognizable elements; the Tamiya turret and gun being the most prominent along with a few odd wheels and hatches coming from my spare parts box.\u00a0 The majority of the wreckage, however, is nothing more that extra brass bits and pieces that I have bent and soldered into interesting shapes.<\/p>\n
I begin by building the Tamiya turret straight from the box. To this I replaced the turret stowage box and side armor using photo etched parts from Aber.\u00a0 Both of these sets are outstanding in their quality and detail and certainly lend a high level of realism to any project.\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0I approached the Aber side skirts, in particular, with a fair amount of trepidation as they have a reputation of being somewhat difficult to construct.\u00a0 Gladly my fears were mostly unwarranted as the assembly went together without incident.\u00a0 However, I would highly recommend soldering the parts as I do not believe that CA glues have the sufficient holding power.\u00a0 Lionroar panzer IV fenders as also used within the tangle of brass.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n
Nothing can convey the look of twisted steel better than twisted brass so no sooner than I had the\u00a0 photo etched parts bent and soldered into pristine shape it was time to mangle them into a mass of twisted metal.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/b>\u00a0 Using a pair of pliers I began by creating an impact area on the rear turret box as if it were created by the dozer pushing the turret forward.\u00a0 Similar damage was also performed to the side armor and fenders.\u00a0 Although the wreckage looks chaotic it\u00a0actually has been thought-out.\u00a0 Each piece of brass has\u00a0been\u00a0selected, cut, bent, and soldered into position making a sort of wreckage “sculpture”, if you will.\u00a0 From time to time I check progress against both with the turret and the dozer blade to insure that it had a natural appearance.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n
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Polished Steel and Fire<\/b><\/p>\n
At first glance it\u2019s obvious that this is going to be an involved painting session(s) as there are many details and small elements to be painted and highlighted.\u00a0 The dozer blade is begun first with a primer spray coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 followed by the Olive Drab color made from a mix of Vallejo colors. I decided to use the \u201csalt technique\u201d or salt masking on the blade to help create the effect of light rusting and weathering to the\u00a0upper areas of the blade surface, while\u00a0creating a high polish to the lower area.\u00a0\u00a0 This method is relatively simple only requiring a little fore-thought to the color layers, but results in very realistic weathered effects.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/b>After the olive color was sprayed, I then\u00a0lightly sprayed the rusty colors to the upper surfaces.\u00a0 <\/b>\u00a0\u00a0After the paint had dried I moistened the surface with tap water and sprinkled salt.\u00a0 Over this I sprayed\u00a0Model Master Oily Aluminum enamel paint to represent the polished steel areas.\u00a0\u00a0 Finally, I washed the salt away\u00a0under the\u00a0tap to find a very nice mottled, subtle, rusty looking surface to the top of the blade, while the bottom buffed to a high polish.\u00a0 I was pleased.\u00a0 The remainder of the blade follows the process of light washes using acrylic paints and artist\u2019s oils, and chips and scratches applied both with\u00a0the brush and\u00a0scouring pad.<\/p>\n\n\n\nngg_shortcode_16_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_17_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nngg_shortcode_18_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_19_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nngg_shortcode_20_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_21_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nngg_shortcode_22_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_23_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nngg_shortcode_24_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_25_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nngg_shortcode_26_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_27_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nngg_shortcode_28_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_29_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \nngg_shortcode_30_placeholder<\/td>\n ngg_shortcode_31_placeholder<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\nWith the blade well underway I preceded with painting\u00a0the Caterpillar D7.\u00a0 As usual I began with a primer of Mr. Surfacer spray to prep the surfaces.\u00a0 The olive color was achieved by successive light layers of green and yellowish colors from the Tamiya range.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/b>\u00a0Initially, the color is much too light and bright by intention knowing that the later weathering will darken and tone down the color.\u00a0 At this point I also added caked mud and dirt to the lower hull and tracks made from plaster dust and plaster chips mixed with a combination of putty and MIG\u00a0Productions Resin.<\/p>\n
One benefit of working on the Dozer is that there are plenty of real world examples to be observed.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/b>\u00a0When doing so, one cannot but help to notice how much wear and tear these type vehicles accumulate.\u00a0 With this in mind, I began to add numerous chips and scuffs, first using a scotch pad then later a fine brush.\u00a0 Over this a number of very light acrylic filters where\u00a0applied to add visual interest to certain areas, and also to begin the weathering and fading process.<\/p>\n
Next I turned to using artist\u2019s oils.\u00a0 MIG Productions Faded Green, Olive Green, and German Ochre were used on the upper surfaces to add depth and richness to the finish, and to also further the fading process.\u00a0 The lower hull, tracks and suspension frame received washes of MIG 502 oils Light Mud and Dark Mud in preparation for the pigments to follow. \u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n
By this stage, the project has taken almost taken a life onto its own; as is so often the case.\u00a0 Initially, my intention was that the Caterpillar would play the dominate role, while the wreckage would be supporting actor.\u00a0\u00a0 As the project has developed I found that the Panzer IV wreckage would need to share equally the limelight.<\/p>\n
Turing to the salt one more time I moistened the burned area on the turret with tap water and then sprinkled a random layer of the white grains, being careful to only mask the burned area. \u00a0I began with my usual primer of Mr. Surfacer, and then added a second primer of flat black; this would also become my shadow colors and interior color.\u00a0 Next, turning to the salt one more time went about creating the burn patches on the turret; moistening the surfaces, adding a small amount salt, and then sprayed another color layer.\u00a0 I repeated this time and again, slightly altering the colors and distribution of the salt pattern.\u00a0Once I felt I had a sufficient burn area\u00a0I completed the turret by adding the\u00a0base\u00a0and camouflage pattern as usual.\u00a0\u00a0 When completed, I simply ran tap water over the turret to dissolve the salt.\u00a0 A light scrubbing with a soft brush was also used to remove all salt traces.<\/p>\n
Continuing, I next sealed the preliminary turret work using Johnson\u2019s Future acrylic floor polish.\u00a0 After which, I employed an ad-hoc back-n-forth process of adding colors (washes, filters, mapping) as well as removing color layers (lacquer thinner, alcohol) to reveal underlying colors within the burnt areas.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/b>\u00a0MIG Productions Black Smoke and Ashes White pigments were used in a limited manner to further reinforce the appearance of fire and smoke.<\/p>\n
Moving along in the process it is now time to bring color to the tangle of wreckage. Using a small piece of card stock as a mask, I worked my way around the wreckage “sculpture” laying down the foundation colors of oranges, reds, browns, blacks and yellows. <\/b>During the process I also continued with the use of salt-masking adding texture and interest to certain elements.<\/p>\n
Down to Earth<\/p>\n
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![\"http:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-content\/uploads\/tWISTED-fRONT-pAGE-copy.jpg\"](\"http:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-content\/uploads\/tWISTED-fRONT-pAGE-copy.jpg\")
The Caterpillar D7 series medium bulldozer began service with the U.S. military during World War II. With upgrades and changes, it has been a workhorse for the U.S. Military for over fifty years, fulfilling its primary earth moving role as well as a host of other roles discovered for it, for example mine clearing with a special flail adapter kit. As is so often the case, the idea for this project is based upon a photograph showing a D7 Dozer in action during World War II clearing the wreckage of a Panzer IV from the roadway.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"http:\/\/ricklawler-propaganda.com\/propaganda\/wp-includes\/js\/tinymce\/plugins\/wordpress\/img\/trans.gif\" "\\"More...\\""){kind=spacer}
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<\/a>By far the tracks presented the greatest challenge (read frustration) to the building of the CAT.\u00a0 The tracks consist of 4 lengths that comprise the top and bottom runs, while single links are to be placed around the drive and idler wheels.\u00a0 The first issue concerns the rear drive wheels as these need some particularly careful attention in order to get them to line-up with the road wheels.\u00a0 I also found that I needed to narrow the axle by sanding either side while also realigning the anchor holes by moving them forward slightly.\u00a0 Neither process is difficult, but the inaccuracy of the alignment will produce ongoing problems if this is not addressed.<\/p>\n